<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?>
<rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom">
	<channel>
		<title>Sensor on The Patio IR Specialist</title>
		<link>http://patio-ir.com/en/tags/sensor/</link>
		<description>Recent content in Sensor on The Patio IR Specialist</description>
		<generator>Hugo</generator>
		<language>en-us</language>
		
		
		
		
			<lastBuildDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2026 11:04:00 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
			<atom:link href="http://patio-ir.com/en/tags/sensor/index.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
			<item>
				<title>Temperature sensor for glass oven</title>
				<link>http://patio-ir.com/en/posts/temperature-sensor-for-glass-oven/</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2026 11:04:00 +0800</pubDate>
				<guid>http://patio-ir.com/en/posts/temperature-sensor-for-glass-oven/</guid>
				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://patio-ir.com/images/0539f8d11cfcdd1efd2329f9dbab37bb.png&#34; alt=&#34;Temperature sensor for glass oven&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;dealing-with-those-annoying-cold-spots-in-complex-glassware&#34;&gt;Dealing with those annoying cold spots in complex glassware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’ve ever worked with glassware that has weird shapes—deep pockets, narrow necks, or irregular curves—you know the frustration of &amp;ldquo;cold spots.&amp;rdquo; In a standard convection kiln, the hot air just doesn&amp;rsquo;t always get where it needs to go. It misses those tucked-away areas, leaving you with uneven stress and, eventually, a piece that cracks during cooling. It&amp;rsquo;s a nightmare.&#xA;To fix this, we stop relying on the air and &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;start&lt;/a&gt; using shortwave infrared (IR) lamps to hit those dead zones directly.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Why radiation works better here&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Think of it this way: convection is like trying to warm up a room with a fan. IR lamps are more like &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;stepping&lt;/a&gt; into the sun. They send out electromagnetic radiation that sinks right into the glass and turns into heat instantly.&#xA;We usually go with quartz halogen tubes because they pack a ton of power into a tiny space. By angling them just right, you can shine heat into the &amp;ldquo;shadows&amp;rdquo; where the kiln&amp;rsquo;s main elements simply can&amp;rsquo;t reach.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The nuts and bolts&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;When we set these up, it all comes down to how much heat you actually need to push into the glass. We typically use high-wattage tubes with R7s or SK15 connectors. Why? Because when a tube finally burns out, you want to be able to swap it out in seconds, not spend an hour rewiring your rig.&#xA;We stick with shortwave radiation specifically because glass absorbs it much faster than longwave. It gets the job done quickly.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;A few things to watch out for&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;But look, you can&amp;rsquo;t just blast the glass with heat and hope for the best. If you overshoot the annealing point, you&amp;rsquo;ll trigger thermal shock and ruin the piece.&#xA;To keep things safe, you&amp;rsquo;ll want to pair the lamps with &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;precise&lt;/a&gt; PID controllers and thermocouples that react fast. And a heads-up: these IR arrays put off a lot of ambient heat. If you don&amp;rsquo;t beef up your &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;cabinet&lt;/a&gt; cooling and wiring, you&amp;rsquo;re going to fry your electronics.&#xA;Once you get the balance right, you can keep a tight temperature window across the whole piece, no matter how strange the shape is. It takes the guesswork out of the cycle, and you can finally stop worrying about those hidden cracks.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
			</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
